The day before, soak the chickpeas in water to cover generously.
The next day, drain the chickpeas and peel as described in recipe note. Place the chickpeas in a small flameproof casserole, cover with water and bring to the boil.
Skim off any remaining skins that rise to the surface, then add the grated onion, parsley, coriander, sweet and hot paprika, ground turmeric, 1/2 teaspoon salt, a pinch of pepper and the smen. Bring to a fast boil, then lower the heat, cover with a crumpled round of wet baking parchment directly on the chickpeas and simmer for 45 minutes or until the chickpeas are meltingly tender but not as soft as a purée.
Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper, and serve hot.
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