THE BIRD THAT FLEW AWAY

• The day before, soak the chickpeas in water to cover generously.
• The next day, drain the chickpeas and peel as described in recipe note. Place the chickpeas in a small flameproof casserole, cover with water and bring to the boil.
• Skim off any remaining skins that rise to the surface, then add the grated onion, parsley, coriander, sweet and hot paprika, ground turmeric, 1/2 teaspoon salt, a pinch of pepper and the smen. Bring to a fast boil, then lower the heat, cover with a crumpled round of wet baking parchment directly on the chickpeas and simmer for 45 minutes or until the chickpeas are meltingly tender but not as soft as a purée.
• Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper, and serve hot.